Letter from Sultana
-- a member of the Inspired Planet family who spends winters in Northern India especially Rishikesh and Dharamsala:

Dear friends and family, i have been wanting to write a long newsy letter for the last few months, so here i finally am.....after being for three months in magical rishikesh, coming to dharamsala was culture shock. i remembered a sleepy little hill town ten years ago, when there were only 5 westerners in town. but since then, the dalai lama has become famous and buddhism has arrived in the west. so dharamsala is "in". and if i wasnt committed to working on the tibetan relief project, i would be "out". anyway, its been a great experience. even if the town has gotten so commercial,(so i got to buy great tibetan artifacts), and theres so much dust and fumes, i try not to go downtown. i live tucked away, in a monastery guest house, with a small balcony overloooking those majestic himalayas, with the snow covered peaks. and all day and nite , i hear the monks chanting and i love it. one major problem, was dharamsala had a very mild winter, (no snow), therefore when spring arrived, there was no snow coming down those mts. to create water coming out of the tap. so for two months, i (and everyone else) lived without running water. i received a bucket a day from the river. let me remind you all, what we so take for granted back home.....the tibetan woman next door to me was always hanging clothes on the balcony to dry. i asked her where she gets the water from to wash them and she said, she walks a few miles to the river, to wash her clothes. and she gave me a big smile. oh , i remember the time, i had a dead fly in my tea, and i complained to the waiter and he was so concerned that the fly died....so since i am here, i have had a private (group) audience with the dalai lama. he is so sweet and joyful, and funny. i have also had a private audience with the karmapa. and the dalai lama was teaching daily for l5 days. thousands of monks and tibetans and westerners from all over, arrived in town, including beggars from all over india. it was a scene. so crowded, and no water. everyone smelled. but when you entered his monastery, and sat with him, all was so serene. the monks prayed and chanted, and then the rains came, and the mud, and now we have running water from the tap. oh did i mention, the electricity goes off every nite. so i learned to live by candle light. we had a jewish buddhist festival in town. rabbis and jewish teachers came from israel and the u.s.a and they made a SEDER for passover. hundreds of people attended. when i left at l.am. the seder was still going on. they gave me a box of matzoh. it was interesting to see hassidic rabbis in their black robes, next to tibet monks in their orange robes, walking around town. there are some great little restaurants in town for tibetan or indian food, and also quiche, crepes, pizza, apple pie, and chocolate cookies. a meal is about a buck....i found a wonderful massage therapist and twice a week i go for my bliss treatment. ($6.60)...there are also acupunturists, magnetic healers, and of course tibetan herbal drs. i went to yeshe donden. many of you probably know and used him. he used to teach at omega, and was the dr. to the dalai lama. when i went to him, and took the tibetan herbal pills, and bite down on one, and broke my tooth. so my worst fear of having teeth problems in india became my reality. i was recommended to use this dentist that many westerners use. a price for a crown is $44. i wouldve had it made here, except for a complication, i decided to wait until i get home in the u.s.a.to have the tooth fixed. its interesting to see the elder tibetan women walking down the st. with prayer beads in one hand, chanting, om,mani ,padme,hum, wearing traditional tibetan dress, AND also wearing nikes, backpacks, and fleece jackets. buddhism has come to the west, and look what we have given the east. so what do i do everyday. i work here. its been a priviledge, to be involved with the tibetan relief project. thank you ananda.....we help about 75 tibetans here in this area, and i have met them all and its been an incredible time being with them. there are babies and young children who we pay for there school fees. older students are able to study thankga painting. we provide aid for monks and nuns and a nomad school in tibet. we help some elderly and many young couples with children. many of these people are refugees, who have left therefamilies back in tibet, walked across the himalayas to get to dharamsala. life is so difficult for them here. but life back in tibet under chinese occupation is also awful. so many have been in chinese prisons, tortured. they arrive here frostbitten, many loose toes, fingers. like we have A.A, meetings in the u.s....here they have ,tibetan torture survivors meetings. there arent enough jobs for all the tibetans that arrive here, and when they do work, the average job pays about $25. a month. a good job pays about $50. a month. there are so many westerners here, helping out. teaching english, or computor skills to the tibetans. and so many tibetans are able to survive by having sponsers help them. by the way, for the many of you, who have sponsered a tibetan, i want to thank you so much. it makes such a difference in their life.....so as difficult as life is here for them, they love to be in dharamsala near his holiness, the dalai lama. i live right down the road from his monastery and go everyday to sit and chant with the monks or walk around the kora, the circle path around the temple with fabulous views. want to know more about tibetan life, i can recommend two very interesting books. one is called sorrow mt. by ani pachen. the other fire under the snow by palden gyatso. ...........so, i leave here in two weeks and fly to miami (speaking of cultural shock),i will visit my mom and have air conditioning, hot running water, a toilet that flushes. but you know i dont really care about that. what i care about is having fresh berkshire air, and organic fooods......thats what i missed the most and of course all of you.......i am really excited to see everyone.....i will miss life here in rishikesh and dharamsala, it is filled with a spirit, that is missing back in the u.s. as dick, calls it "THE BREATH OF INDIA". and i will miss so much walking with the cows and monkeys too...........
- Sultana

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